15th Mar, 2025 9:30 GMT/BST
Cartier: A Magnificent Very Light Pink 8.62 Carat Diamond Necklace
the modified marquise mixed cut diamond in a simple white six claw setting, detachable from a pendant mount potentially allowing varied use, both signed Cartier and numbered to the reverse, pendant mount to a trace link chain
necklace length 42.8cm
Provenance: From a private collection, gifted approximately 25 years ago.
The necklace is accompanied by a Colored (sic) Diamond Report from the Gemological Institute of America, GIA, report number 2235473592, dated January 28, 2025, stating the natural diamond weighs 8.62 carat, clarity VVS1, color (sic) very light pink.
Pink diamonds are exceptionally rare. Historically, they have largely been discovered in India, South Africa, Tanzania, and Borneo, amongst other places. Some estimates suggest that as few as 1 in 10,000 gem quality diamonds produced worldwide show any noticeable colour. Of that small number, a similar percentage (approximately 0.01%) have a pink tone. In more recent times (the latter part of the 20th century into the early 21st century) the most prolific producer of pink diamonds in the world was the Argyle mine in Australia. Only 1 in 90,000 diamonds mined there tended to be of gem quality pink colour. Furthermore, Argyle diamonds tend to be in the lower clarity range, unlike this example.
How coloured diamonds are formed varies depending upon the colour. Some diamonds obtain their colour from plastic deformation. This is caused by dislocations in the diamond structure, which happens when the diamond is deep within the Earth, under great pressure, and subject to very high temperatures, when atoms are more mobile. The word plastic indicates that this deformation is permanent. This structural anomaly allows free bonds to react with light, and cause absorption in the blue end of the light spectrum, which can create a brown colour. In pink and red diamonds, the phenomenon is not yet fully understood, and it is possible that the aforementioned plastic deformation occurs in combination with another impurity, or defect, to create these incredibly rare colours.
Please note viewing for this lot is strictly by appointment. Please contact Jewellery Specialist Jessica Fall to make an appointment on 01969 623780.
Sold for £190,000
Estimated at £150,000 - £200,000
The necklace is in good condition. It fastens with a bolt ring catch. The diamond is detachable from the reverse of the mount potentially allowing for varied use. By repute, there was originally a sapphire, diamond and pearl drop which formed part of the piece, which has previously been sold. The reverse bears the Cartier signature, stamped '750' and numbered '750624Z'. Once the diamond is detached from the chain the reverse of the mount is also signed Cartier, stamped '750' and numbered '750624'. The pink hue varies under different lighting conditions making it more visible at certain angles, possibly due to the strong orange fluorescence. Gross weight 7.6 grams. CR made 07.02.25.
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Auction: Fine Jewellery, Watches & Silver, 15th Mar, 2025
Jewellery
In one of the most exciting Jewellery sales in recent years, there are several lots from leading makers including Van Cleef and Arpels, Cartier, Hermes and Chopard, the highlight of which is a rare Magnificent Very Light Pink 8.62 Carat Diamond Necklace signed and numbered by Cartier. Further items from these iconic names include A Mother-of-Pearl Alhambra Necklace and Earring Suite, by Van Cleef & Arpels, A Pair of Diamond Hoop Earrings, by Cartier formed of graduated C de Cartier logo links, A Multi-Gem Set Happy Diamond Pendant on Chain, by Chopard modelled as an articulated clown and An Enamel Ring, by Hermès comprised of three yellow textured entwined bands, each with a central band of enamel decoration in either red, blue or green
Sapphires feature strongly in the sale, including an unusual 18 Carat Gold Star Sapphire Swivel Ring, the oval cabochon star sapphire in a yellow rubbed over setting, with a swivel loop, and An 18 Carat White Gold Sapphire and Diamond Ring. Period jewellery in the sale features An Early-Mid Victorian Sapphire and Diamond Brooch and A Diamond Brooch, circa 1920, the pierced plaque set throughout with old cut and rose cut diamonds.
Watches
The Watches section features a good range of makers and periods, from popular collector’s names such as Jaeger LeCoutre and Rolex, rare military watches and modern makers.
Highlights include a Jaeger LeCoultre Lady's 18 Carat White Gold Diamond Set Reverso Wristwatch, a A Rare Stainless Steel Automatic Calendar Centre Seconds Wristwatch, “Great White” signed Rolex with the original dial and original bracelet, a Second World War German Luftwaffe Pilots Single Push Chronograph Wristwatch circa 1938 and an Omega Rare British Military Royal AirForce “Thin Arrow” signed Omega. Modern makers include a Bremont: A Limited Edition Stainless Steel Automatic Calendar Chronograph Wristwatch, signed Bremont, Chronometer, model: Mustang P-51, number 038 of a limited edition of 251 pieces made, circa 2009.
Silver
The silver section of the sale includes almost 170 lots dating from across five centuries. From the 16th century is an Elizabeth I silver chalice and paten which last appeared on the public market at Christie’s in 2004. Another early rarity is a Charles II Scottish trefid-spoon which is marked for Edinburgh, circa 1670. It is one of a number of early spoons and items of flatware which are offered in the sale.
Leading the sale is a rare silver-mounted sandstone match-holder in the form of an elephant. Made for Faberge in St Petersburg by his Workmaster Julius Rappoport circa 1890 it is believed to have originated from Clifton Castle, near Ripon. Other European highlights include two 18th century Maltese sugar-bowls and covers and two charming Dutch silver miniature toys. The 20th century silver includes the final instalment of napkin-rings from the Lion Collection. The examples offered in this sale include Arts and Crafts examples, made in the very early years of the 20th century, and later examples by some of the best known silversmiths of the late 20th century, including Stuart Devlin, Grant MacDonald and Chris Knight.
Viewing
Sunday 9th March - Thursday 13th March 11am-3pm, Friday 14th March 8am-3pm and morning of the sale from 8am
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