15th Jul, 2023 9:30 GMT/BST
Fine Jewellery, Watches & Silver
2323
Property of a Lady
A Chalcedony, Sapphire and Diamond Flower Brooch, by Suzanne Belperron
the flowerhead formed with a central cluster of round brilliant cut diamonds to five blue chalcedony petals, with round brilliant cut and rectangular step cut sapphire detailing, in white rubbed over settings, to a plain polished stem with a carved blue chalcedony bead leaf motif and terminating to a step cut sapphire, total estimated diamond weight 2.35 carat approximately
measures 8.1cm by 5.6cm
You can view a video of this lot HERE
Provenance: Property of a Lady. Gifted to the vendor on her wedding day in 1952 by Italian Princess/Marchesa Maria Nunziante di Mignano.
Accompanied by certificate of origin, numbered 230620, dated June 20th, 2023, from Olivier Baroin certifying that Groëné et Darde manufactured the brooch for Belperron, circa 1945
Suzanne Belperron (1900-1983) began her career in jewellery design at the House of René Boivin in 1919, after completing her studies at the Ecole des Beaux-Arts in Besançon. She worked as a designer there throughout the 1920’s before leaving to become the chief designer at Bernard Herz in 1932. After the death of Herz, she took over the company and re-named it Herz-Belperron, and continued to lead the designs. Developing a customer base that came to include the Duchess of Windsor, Elsa Schiaparelli, Josephine Baker and Frank Sinatra, amongst many other high-profile figures, she enjoyed working with gem materials that would be regarded by many as non-precious: agate, rock crystal and chalcedony (as featured in this lot) to name a few. She is known for minimising the use of metal in her blue chalcedony designs, to accentuate the effect of the precious gems almost clinging to the sculptural chalcedony.
The lapidary work sometimes required innovation to meet her designs, and Adrien Louard was responsible for much of this work. On occasion he had to create a new technique or tool in order to provide a stone that would fit the brief.
She never marked her pieces and famously quipped “my style is my signature”.
Sold for £38,000
Estimated at £5,000 - £7,000
The brooch is in fair condition, with slight damages to the chalcedony petals and a chip to the reverse of one, there is also a mark to the stem perhaps where another leaf motif could have been present originally. It fastens with a double pin and visor catch. It is stamped with the French eagle's head and in our opinion would test as gold. It is marked with “G&D” for Groëné et Darde (see extra images) behind the pin and on the stem. They were one of Belperron’s most trusted manufacturers, this stamp dates the piece to between 1928 and 1955. The approximate qualities of the diamonds are; colour I/J/K, clarity SI2/I1/I2. Gross weight 50.0 grams. CR made 15.05.23.
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We accept no liability for the opinions expressed in any Condition Report.
Auction: Fine Jewellery, Watches & Silver, 15th Jul, 2023
A Chalcedony, Sapphire and Diamond Flower Brooch by Suzanne Belperron, one of the most original and influential jewellery designers of the 20th century, is to be offered in the Fine Jewellery, Watches and Silver Sale. The brooch is the Property of a Lady, who was given it on her wedding day in 1952 by the Italian noblewoman Marchesa Maria Nunziate di Mignano. From the same vendor comes an Art Deco Diamond Bracelet, and amongst a host of other glittering jewels in the sale is a Diamond Cluster Ring featuring a fancy intense yellow cut-cornered rectangular diamond.
Fine vintage and luxury watches include a rare Rolex 'Single Red Line' Submariner, a 1982 Patek Philippe Caltrava, and a limited edition Breitling Bentley. The silver section of the sale is led by a remarkable 18 carat gold three-piece George VI Café au Lait Service made by E. Silver and Co. of Sheffield in 1947, and a fine pair of George II Provincial Silver Candlesticks, made in 1746 and 1747 by James Kirkup of Newcastle.
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Sunday 9 July to Friday 14 July 11am-4pm and morning of sale from 8am
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